To me this one looks ok, whereas the condition is not very good (maybe some damage due to fire or being buried somewhere). What about the weight and the sound, do they fit?
and it also flips wrong. In order to flip it so that it is at a correct orientation you have to flip it like you flip an American coin instead of the usual way you flip a german coin.
But a die roation of 180° is the norm for this coin ... have you not looked at the coin page?
Also when you did so many tests why not give us the reults they would be good information additional to the pictures.
To identify contemporary fakes from 18th/early 19th century, the sound is always a good evidence (if the minting details are inconclusive) as even fakes with a thick silver plating sound different from real silver coins. You can let it jump over the table and compare the sound with a same size (thickness) genuine silver coin and a copper or brass coin to hear the difference as silver always rings whereas copper alloys don't.
Цитата: "Silberschatz"To identify contemporary fakes from 18th/early 19th century, the sound is always a good evidence (if the minting details are inconclusive) as even fakes with a thick silver plating sound different from real silver coins. You can let it jump over the table and compare the sound with a same size (thickness) genuine silver coin and a copper or brass coin to hear the difference as silver always rings whereas copper alloys don't.
That method won't be always useful. Some of the fake coins are wholly made out of silver and aren't always silver plated. By the way, as long as there are some old coins which are actually silver plated instead of being made out of pure silver, sound checking won't help. First of all it would be better to find what is the exact composition of a coin, is it a chunck of copper with thick silver plate, or is it a silver of low fineness and so on.
That's true, in this case the coin has a high fineness and a contemporary fake would just have made sense to save silver, so I would listen to this coin as an evidence among others. I do this sometimes with Ecu's from France or German Thalers and there it works good with a bit practice as there are fake Ecus with copper core and unsuspicious weight on the one hand and genuine ones with really bad minting quality on the other hand. Otherwise I would take the most attention on the clearness of the details like hair or letters if possible as the most fakes are struck with lower pressure.
None of you guys are helpful. All you are doing is saying what I am doing wrong. And I PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED THAT I DID MANY TESTS BUT THEY ALL WERE INCONCLUSIVE! I should have just asked my friend who owns an lcs to help me in the first place instead of getting such negative feedback from just asking if a coin is fake! I am disappointed in humanity rn.?
Цитата: "Idolenz"But a die roation of 180° is the norm for this coin ... have you not looked at the coin page?
Also when you did so many tests why not give us the reults they would be good information additional to the pictures.
and yes I did look at the coin page. I am not that dumb.
Your coin looks real to me, just heavily corroded and damaged. My better one http://avscoins.com/en/coin/2575/hannover-23-thaler-1814/ weights 13,11 g, so yours just lost about ,35 g to corrosion which by the look of it is correct. Such heavy corrosion and damage would also have its effect on the loss of high silver sound, thus the sound test would not work in this case.
I collect coins and tokens which circulated in Africa from 18th century to 2000. I sell about 7000 illustrated world coins from http://www.avscoins.com.
Цитата: "Andrey"Your coin looks real to me, just heavily corroded and damaged. My better one
http://avscoins.com/en/coin/2575/hannover-23-thaler-1814/ weights 13,11 g, so yours just lost about ,35 g to corrosion which by the look of it is correct. Such heavy corrosion and damage would also have its effect on the loss of high silver sound, thus the sound test would not work in this case.
